On Biting

Samantha Winburn

A while ago, I read the responses to a forum request for tips on what to do when a horse bites. The majority of advice was to immediately slap the horse, most said “on the neck,” to create a sound that would convey the idea that biting was not acceptable.

I must respectfully disagree with this idealistic response to the most dangerous behavior that a horse can display to a human.  Whereas a horse can break bones with a kick, the bones will usually heal just fine, but a horse that bites can remove great masses of muscle and that does not heal. A friend’s small daughter was feeding a carrot to their stallion, holding the carrot in that blind spot right in front of the stallion’s face. He didn’t know he was taking the child’s arm in his mouth instead of the carrot and nearly removed the arm. Fortunately the arm was saved, but the child will have a great scar to remind her not to hand-feed stallions (the stallion was sold right after that to avoid the response the parents really wanted to exercise). Horses bite for three basic reasons:  play, exert dominance, or as a final defense.

 Every horse is born with the knowledge of and desire to play their favorite game – “Bite Face.”  Watch horses playing in the pasture. Especially the geldings know how to play this game and they love it. When you slap a horse for biting, it will be understood that you want to play their favorite game too, but they are going to be much better at it than you.  Biting them back is not an option because it sends the same message (yes, someone told me that was her cure).

 Whenever any horse bites (gelding, mare, or stallion), it is either accepting you as an equal and inviting you to play, or it is sending the message that you have violated its space, you subcreature,  and you need to be punished, to be put back in your place. This behavior is most common with a young or a new horse trying to find its niche in the herd. End result for the human is the same – missing tissue.

 Other times a horse will bite is when it 1) can’t get away by flight, 2) can’t kick you, or 3) is cornered or scared into blind panic and will use any means to escape the threat or torment wherein the horse perceives you as the threat or tormentor. These are situations best avoided and if unavoidable, you should seek safety in flight. You should never put a horse in that position, but if you did because you are the type that must “show ‘em who’s boss,” then you deserved a bite (at the very least).

 It is a mistake to think that you will be able to avoid the potential biting situation 100% of the time.  It is better to teach proper behavior than slip up once, lose your concentration just once, then pay the consequences for your lack of focus. Regardless of the stimulus, a bite cannot be tolerated. The first and easiest method is not avoidance, but the calm insistence that the horse’s head does not belong in your space. Start with head movement toward you, don’t wait to react to an actual attempt to lip, nip, or bite.

 With babies, slowly pushing the head away from you will transmit the correct message and with consistency and repetition, the baby will not grow into a biter. When you are working around the baby, grooming it, or just in the area, create a space into which the foal cannot encroach. I extend my arm’s all around me (especially behind me) to create “my space.” If a foal is following too closely, I will extend my arms out from my body and back a little to simulate pinned ears, then pick up one foot like I am going to kick. In other words, “I’m alpha, and you are too close.”  Especially with the babies, you must be aware of their proximity at all times. They haven’t had time to learn the rules from mom or other herd members and you have to be part of the herd to fit into the hierarchy in their minds.

 I bought a yearling once that had been allowed to lip and nip and eventually bite. He was good at getting to your arm while you had your hands full opening the gate, or carrying a bucket. He had been disciplined with a slap and was quicker than a snake at avoiding it.  I had to be very firm in creating my space and convincing him that it wasn’t an invitation to play. I know many people don’t believe in talking to horses, but they can read a tone better than most humans so I talk to them all the time. All of my horses learn two words very early on: “no!” and “out.”   “No” is used when they are behaving in a dangerous manner, so not spoken too often. When I do use it, it is spoken loudly (more so than a normal voice) and if serious enough, with anger and body language for reinforcement. “Out” is used to give me more space. This is a good one because they learn that it means “move away,” as in “move away from the gate so that I can come in,” and they will eventually get out of things even when you are not right there to physically chase them off.  Use “out” in a firm but not angry voice.  The yearling overcame his biting habit and never made contact so I never had to resort to a more severe action, but I have never taken him for granted nor given him opportunity to revert.

The worse case is a deliberate bite (whether done in play or anger), and on the first attempt at a bite, you must meet it with extreme prejudice. There are three rules about the extreme form of punishment: 1) You have 3 seconds to react, 2) use nothing except your hand (no ropes, sticks, or other handy items), and 3) NEVER hit in front of the shoulder. Your reaction must take place immediately; it is the 3-second rule and cannot follow a delay because a horse’s short-term memory is just about 3 seconds long. Anything after that and you are catering to your anger with revenge. There is no room for revenge in a horse-human relationship. It equals abuse and is completely unacceptable. Buy a motorcycle and abuse that instead. If the horse attempts to bite you, even if it just nips a sleeve or lips your arm, you must convince that horse beyond any reservation in its mind that you are going to kill it. This is what I reserve yelling for. Yell, hit, slap, kick (be careful how and where – not your toes and not in the belly), wave your arms, get really angry, and scare it nearly to death.

 What are the two most important things about horse-human relationships? #1 YOU don’t get hurt. #2 the horse doesn’t get hurt.  Believe me when I tell you that you cannot kick as hard or hit as hard as a horse so you are not going to cause any physical harm, but you had better make a lasting mental impression. I have done this with more than one horse and it has always worked. I follow the punishment with a pause to let them think about it then take a deep breath and lead them a ways, stop, and then turn and stroke their neck with a soft low word of encouragement. One “scare tactic” with extreme prejudice and after that a growl and “no” usually works very well as a reminder and reinforcement. It could be necessary to do it again with a slow learner, but I have never had to repeat it. It won’t ruin your relationship with your “buddies” but will actually increase their responsiveness to you when you both show each other mutual respect.  Extreme prejudice isn’t something you do a lot or even often, but be resolved to be convincing when you do.

Teach horses respect from birth, establish and maintain your space, softly push them out of your space, then exert the final measure if you have to in order to stop the biting before it begins or results in life-long disfigurement (or worse). Don’t hesitate to do what must be done to prevent or correct biting and both you and your horse will be a lot safer and a lot happier.